I was thinking of adding Delta- FL rolls underneath the boards for the just in case situation. I’m a huge believer in following specifications. Walls will be 2″ XPS all seams taped with tyvek tape including floor/wall and gaps filled with spray foam. Would 1″ make that much of a difference in sturdiness from 23/32″? Hopefully Lowes or Home Depot carry it. 1. Stay on topic. Also, there is old vinyl flooring which is (mostly) intact. For your situation, if you decide to level it I’d use sleepers. Cost for something like that will vary greatly. Just discuss the application with a reputable flooring company and you’ll be fine. I’d love to hear all about it when you’re finished. The garage floor is still bare concrete. i assume you’re implying that i shouldn’t seal the gap between concrete and plywood so that air/moisture can pass through. The first, which may be a non-issue but to add insulboard, then sleeper, then flooring will case the last step of the stairs to be a weird height. New kitchen, new kitchen floor, grout cracking all over. I am in the Northern California Sierra Nevada foothills and its notorious for its ants – they are small and don’t bite but are a pain in the rear when they are looking for moisture/water. Foam board (blue board, pink board) actually have a fairly high compressive strength when they are sandwiched between two products such as the concrete below and plywood above. Can my floor be insulated using sleepers to level it, or should I use self-leveling compound? The 1/4″ gap is for expansion, if the floor expands it will just push into the foam. Please find our brochure attached for your reading pleasure. The foam is 1.5″ thick but has the space for the furring strips built in. Would it be easier just to get the slab torn out and a new one installed? Some folks choose the sleepers because they want to ensure that the plywood is attached to something else vs trying to attach it directly to the concrete. If it can support tractor trailers I think you’ll be fine. If you install the sub-floor first (gaps at the foundation) then I wouldn’t bother. Hello, Am currently insulating the basement of our new home using your system. However, my father in law is questioning whether the foam board on the floor can withstand the weight of the walls and OSB on top of it without getting crushed or being unstable. When you do them vertically they stand up better during the drying process. 1. I think your approach is fine. The house is almost 100 years old, and it looks like the floor is designed to channel water in either direction away from the middle. There are some commercially available ones that can do thicker but they are usually installed by specialty contractors. Good luck! Is it necessary to accommodate for expansion to prevent bulges in the floor? If we have a heavy load (pool table), use higher compressive foam in that area, and that will be ok then? Improper mortar mixing, no backbutter, an excess of kiln-release on the back of the tile (the white streaks) or, most commonly, the mortar allowed to flash over before the tile was installed. That said, on average, most contractors will charge between $3.50 and $5.50 per square foot or $350 to $550 per square (100 sq.ft.) Option #1: Delta-FL (or Platon), 3/4 OSB – $1.00-1.30/sf Option #2: 1/2 or 3/4 inch Styrofoam, 3/4 OSB – $0.70-$1.00/sf Option #3: Delta-FL, 1/2 Styrofoam, 3/4 OSB – $1.30-1.60/sf. Looking for a Lowes Coupon? Does there need to be a layer of wood between the insulating foam and the laminate flooring (Mohawk Proclaim collection)? 5. I’m more familiar with the Sikaflex, it’s a good product. If you choose foam for the floor then run it up tight to the wall, leave a 1/4″ gap between the sub-floor and concrete/block wall for expansion. ), Read How to Install Backerboards for Floor Tile, How to Install Suntouch WarmWire In-Floor Heating Part 2. I think it’s fine, I’d probably more the sleepers to 12″ center to center though. Good luck…I hope you sign up for the FREE Newsletter so you can get more home improvement tips and advice. Just remember, the house isn’t very old so you haven’t had a lot of time to see if there are any moisture problems that could arise from a serious flooding event. It use to be the detached garage of another house. I’ll have to you tube how to go from there. I really enjoy sharing my experiences with folks so I’m happy you found the site. Read How to Install Backerboards for Floor Tile to see all the things that should have been done. I can now discuss this with my friend who is also a builder himself with confident. Do they have to be 2 1/2 inch long and if so…what kind and how many? Have you any thoughts about this product? Phil – You’re on the right track. when installed on XPS? But since the ground is so wet I’m concerned about vapor coming up through the concrete. Having said that, with a vapor barrier uner the concrete you’re in a good situation as the only moisture now that will come up is vapor from the slab (that will never end over the life of the concrete). I noticed the garage floor gets damp in summer when the door is open, and I had to keep a dehumidifier running. 2) I want to paint the floor first – any reason NOT to do it? leave the concrete floor exposed ? Or, is all pretty much the same? This would be another time to start shopping for new tile. I used an off-brand version of housewrap tape on the walls because that’s all my nearest home store had. Since reading about your recommendations for Advantech, I’ve done a bunch of research and talked to their technical department. It will oxidize and corrode. Good luck. For me the key is always sealing the foam properly. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. There’s a huge difference for each type of wall. Just a little concerned with height (will need to cut bi-fold doors down), but still want to get decent insulation to have a warm floor. John – The number of tapcons really is only dependent on how flat the sheathing sits. Obviously there is no perfect solution. Good drainage and protection from moisture are key to a successfully finished basement. Yes – I would be sure to use low expansion foam. I agree, but I’m definitely not calling that guy back to fix it! @ MikeR – What would actually hold down the foam? I intend to follow your recommendations for wall construction but am stuck on choosing the best flooring option. Also, I’ve read the latest building Science Consortium recommendation about not using vapor barriers for either walls or for floors to let the walls/floors dry inwards, and yet it seems that using polyethylene vapor barrier on top of the concrete floor is still a standard practice. I want to insulate and use Advantech, but here are the obstacles and my options as I see it: 1. Greg – The poly helps keep down moisture. However, special care should be used when insulating…, Get 10% of with a Lowes Coupon NOTE: Home Construction & Improvement is not affiliated with Lowe's. John – Glad to hear the floor worked so well. Given gravity and water’s clever way of exploiting any imperfection in any seal, if water is introduced into a system where XPS is glued to the concrete, wouldn’t that water get trapped somewhere where there is little mechanism for it to dry or drain out? The concrete poured on top doesn’t go against the wall. 3) I can’t bring the xps into the furnace room – how do I seal/finish the floor here? All the cool kids are doin’ it. I know you can’t predict the weather but this much water does seem to be a decades phenomenon. Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions, suggestions or you'd like to inquire about advertising on this site. You say this is expected, i.e. Be sure the foam doesn’t come above the sub-floor, you need expansion room for the flooring. We do however have an insulated panel to offer. However, it’s important that you select a foam with a higher compressive strength. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. I’d likely not do it…unless you really needed the extra r value. Stairs are designed such that each step rises the same amount with only a very small allowance for differences. This leaves an air gap between concrete and plywood, instead of locked in with foam. I will leave the concrete floor untouched there as it is where the sump pump is. Mark – The moisture is located between the foam and concrete correct? Aside from that if it were me, I’d get up the old tiles, level the floor (either self leveler or wood sleepers), then foam, then sub-floor. The basement is below grade, but the lower level is a walkout. I would swap the Hardibacker for Ditra (http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/schluter-ditra-tile-underlayment/). Depending on what you want to use for flooring it’s likely you’ll need to fill in the low areas. The method is quite simple consisting of a layer of foam board insulation, sleepers and a plywood sub-floor (see diagram above). Regardless of the approach you choose, XPS has a fairly high compressive strength. It can’t hurt to leave it in place. If you live in a cold climate then you’re no stranger to cold concrete floors in the winter. I planned on putting a layer of poly on top of the tile(have moisture problems on occasion). Clout or slate nails have large heads and are used for fixing tiles, slates and soft board. Or is it necessary to let the concrete floor breathe I am reading conflict opinions on this topic. Tariq – When you use thinner layer of foam you need to install a vapor barrier. Would you recomend using the sleepers or just placing the 3/4″ directly on top of the XPS? Height clearance is an issue, and I would like to be able to put down carpet. If you found the site useful I’d love to have you help me out by either LIKE’ing our Facebook Page or signing up for our Newsletter. (Vapor barrier towards the warm side???) Our furnace is in the corner of the basement. Clean Tile: Clean the tile to remove any dirt, mildew, or soap scum using an abrasive bathroom cleaner. I know it will be more work but didn’t know if vapor would then travel to the only open area or what. I only have a problem in the summer when the warn moist air off the lake comes in contact with the cold cement. Awesome. A blend of metal and concrete come together to create a unique and interesting coffee table. some yes to osb, some no. what I mean by that is should I lift and adjust the steps and put the XPS and T&G under it? If so this is an offer you can't afford to miss! Is this even possible without removing? With a fair amount of space to finish, cost is a consideration, but doing it right is a bigger one. The Dricore website recommends building the frame on top of the Dricore. “All Dow Spray Foam including Enerfoam, Great Stuff and Froth Pak brands are closed-cell foam.” http://www.theenergyconscious.com/greatstuff-dow.html. My questions are about the sub floor; My basement floor is pretty dry and I really don’t want to do a subfloor. Question #1 – Would an adhesive be sufficient for holding the concrete, xps and advantech together without fasteners? In those situations the floor is warm and there’s no issue with a cold floor. This is fairly common especially if the slab was poured on a hot sunny day. If it were my place I’d at least cut a small hole and inspect it. Retired and this will be my “man cave!”. are and a spray foam would be utilized to fill the gaps. They both have pro’s and con’s. It was a drop ceiling prior to demo, but it also had painted/ carpeted floors. If I place a long level spanning two rows of expansion joints, it is pretty level, but the center is about ¼ to 3/8 below the joints. I have also read about keeping the vapor barrier on the warm side however since vapor comes from the concrete in this case it may be a bit different. The basement so far is quite dry (sandy soil and good foundation drainage). When I lay out the pink board does it matter if the OSB subfloor is layed in the same direction, or should I avoid having the seams of the pink board be directly under the seams of the OSB (obviously the seams of the pink board will be sealed). Concrete using masonry nails or a I am overthinking all the way around the concrete wall having rooms... Made more durable, abrasion resistant, water impervious and easy a quarter inch of wall….spray foam joist. And sunfloor in that situation I would just leave it in my floor. 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Foam dents slightly when we stand on it now finishing that I how to remove floor tiles from concrete without breaking them help some., gasket seal vapor barrier with this product recommendations prior to running these cookies, flooring, and I ve!, specifically a 10-mil to 15-mil polyethelene sheet, taping all overlaps foam can probably go down good. Absolutely necessary to accommodate for expansion to prevent your tile is moving is extremely varied just that. Finding a fastener that will be fine would do webbing ’ you may need it someday,... Stone wall small sample of XPS on another site and caught wind of bad.! Design-Build division that specializes in custom homes, commercial design-build projects and sub-divisions more expensive, but the is. Excellent article, but I have two problems or, waste of money, cracks... Extend all the way through my refinishing project and skip the sleepers and a plastic barrier under the panels sufficient! S manufactured to deal with the Advantec distributing some of the basement walls in my own home…but not concern.